b'JONATHAN VAN BILSENTHE NORTHERN HALFPART 2Last month I started this article on India, and realized there was too much to talk about in one column. This month I amnishing my trip to the northern part of the country.Making my way west, by train, Iarrived in Agra,any one of them without the others being aware.nally home of the Taj Mahal. The city of Agra, in an effort to mini- Along the colourful streets of Jaipur, tuk-tuks jostle for mize pollution on its famous landmark, has banned vehicularspace amid elephants, while turbaned elders rub shoulders traf c within one km of the complex. with young people in jeans. All forms of transportation areThe Taj took 12 years to build by 25,000 workers, at a costfound here, competing for a spot on the narrow streets.of 1.25 million US dollars, which in todays currency is over 70One of the most breathtaking sights to visit in Jaipur is million. It is built of marble, each centimetre of which is inlaidthe Amber Fort. Built high on a mountain, the only means of with precious stones and gems. Inside the grand chamber aretransportation is by elephant, along cobbled pathways. The the tombs of the emperor and his wife.government imposes strict rules on the owners of elephantsI was eager to continue west, to what is affectionatelyto ensure their safety and well being. They are only allowed to known as the most beautiful part of India, Rajasthan. It wasmake the trek three times a day.also an opportunity for me to travel to Ranthambore NationalOne of the last sites in Jaipur I visited, was the Jantar Park, in search of Bengal tigers. Mantar Observatory, constructed in 1728 by the Maharaja This area was a hunting lodge for the Hindu Kings orof Jaipur. This is the best-preserved example of theve ob-Maharajas, as they were known. It became a national parkservatories he built. The Maharaja was intrigued by the stars in 1973 and is home to roller birds and sandbar, which areabove, and spent many hours studying, charting and creating Indian deer. Although I did not see any tigers, I did have antheories, many of which turned out to be true. The observa-opportunity to see a very rare, three-toed sloth bear, whichtory is home to the largest sundial in the world, which is duly few people have an opportunity to see. noted in the Guinness World Book of Records. I continued to Jaipur, also known as the pink city, as manyRajasthan is indeed spectacular, and my visit to Jodhpurof the buildings have been washed in a pale rose colour. Iwasnodisappointment.Iimmediatelywenttovisitthe took a side trip into the mountains to visit the Tiger Fort, in anMehrangarh Fort, certainly the most majestic of the Rajasthan area, which was once a dense jungle and has been occupiedforts, and a favourite of Rudyard Kipling. It was built in the by many different rulers. The king who built the fort had ninemid-1400s and is made solely of sandstone. wives, and constructed secret passageways so he could visitIasked one of the guards how easy it was to tie his turban Please turn to page 56Agras famous Taj Mahal.FOCUS - MAY 202255'