b'The Wailing Wall is sacred to Jews all over the world. The Dome of the Rock, located in the Muslim quarter, is a sacred site for all religions.ThemoderncityofJerusalemisens of small shops selling all types of the capital of Israel, a relatively newlyproducts.formedcountry.JerusalemshistoryMamillaMall,isanupscaleshop-dates back 5,000 years, when it wasping street and the only open-air mall in known as Gihon Spring. It was the mainJerusalem.Locatednorthwestofthe source of water for the original site ofJaffa Gate, the mall consists of a 600 Jerusalemanditwaswhatmadeametreor2,000-footpedestrianprom-settlementpossible. Accordingtotheenade, which is lined with 140 stores, JONATHAN VAN BILSEN Bible,KingDavidconqueredthecityrestaurants, and cafes, and sits atop a fromtheJebusitesandestablisheditmulti-story parking garage for 1,600 cars I have always had the ancient city ofas the capital of the United Kingdom ofand buses, as well as a bus terminal. Jerusalem on my bucket list, and con- Israel around 1000 BCE. His son, KingThemallincorporatesthefacadesof tinued to slide it toward the back, be- Solomon,commissionedthebuilding19th-century buildings from the original cause the Middle East seemed some- of the First Temple. Being in the MiddleMamilla Street and iswith sculp- lled what volatile. Fortunately, two monthseast, an area which is constantly chang- tures and art.prior to the COVID-19 outbreak, I tooking, Jerusalem has to focus on safetyOf course the biggest attraction in theplunge, toIsraelandvisitedfor its residents and tourists. Crime isJerusalem is the old city, home to theew the wonderful city of Jerusalem. I mustlow and the general population respectsMuslim,Christian,JewishandArme-admit, I have never felt safer. In fact, Ieach other. Cleanliness is also adherednian Quarters. There are four main en-wandered out from my hotel on a Sat- to with recycling bins placed throughouttrances to the Old City. The main one is urday night and walked 45 minutes tothe city. the Jaffa Gate, which was built by Sul-dinner, saw a movie (Downton Abbey,Jerusalems entire city center areatan Suleiman the Magni cent in 1538.completewithsubtitles)andwalkedis now one large pedestrian mall.TheShopsandmarketssellingprayer back around 11 p.m. The few peoplecity centers core is Ben Yehuda Street,shawls,rosaries,andceramics ll I saw on the street were friendly anda pedestrian walkway, full of shops andbusyalleys,whilefoodstallsserve I wondered where else in the world Irestaurants.Theareasrenovationafalafel, pita, and fresh-squeezed juice.would feel this safe. few years back made for a welcomingNooneknowsforcertainhowmany OldJerusalemisacity withexperience,withitsrepavedJerusa- synagogues there are in Jerusalem, butlled historyanddatesbacktosome- lem stone walkway, classy street lampif you include every worship-gathering where around 3500 BCE. King Davidposts, elevated seating areas, and doz- the number could top 1,000.conqueredthecityandmadeittheEntering the old city of Jerusalem is capital of the Jewish Kingdom. His sonlike stepping back in time. Men carrying Solomonbuiltthreetemplesaboutfreshly baked bread walk amid tourists 40 years later and the western wall ofandshopperswhoareenjoyingthe the third one of them is still standingquaintness of the cobblestoned streets. today. Modern Jerusalem has nearly aPomegranates and other fresh produce million inhabitants and is the countrysis on display everywhere and souvenir political and cultural centre. shops can be found every few metres.Surrounded by ancient walls, the OldThe entrance to the Muslim quarter City is home to holy sites such as theisheavilyguarded,onceinsideitis Western Wall, Dome of the Rock Islamicverysafetowanderaroundthenar-shrine, and the Church of the Holy Sep-ulchre, which dates to the 4th century. The entrance to Mamilla Mall is very modern. Please turn to page 56FOCUS - OCTOBER 202055'