b'Freedom Monument high in the Shipka Pass in Northern Bulgaria.area of 17 acres. There are 50 objects, including water installations and houses, withcraftsmensworkshopsattached. As a whole, the goal is to illustrate the architecture, way of life and economy of Bulgaria during the Bulgarian National Revival, in the early 1800s.One of the places I would highly rec-ommend for a visit is the Shipka Memorial Church. It has to be one, if not the most magni cent Orthodox church in Europe. It was built in 1885, and took 17 years to complete. It is dedicated to the Russian, UkrainianandBulgariansoldiersthat died for the liberation of Bulgaria in the Russo-Turkish War, 1877-78.The city of Plovdiv is well worth the visit. Dating back 8,000 years, it is one oftheoldestcitiesonthecontinent. There are more than 200 archaeologi-cal sites including two ancient theatres,The Shipka Memorial Church is one of the most picturesque churches I have ever seen The gold-domed Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was built in the early 20th century in memory of the 200,000 Russian,remains of the medieval walls and tow- and dates back to 1885.Ukrainian, Belorussian and Bulgarian soldiers, who died in the Russo-Turkish War, 1877-1878. ers, Ottoman baths and mosques, and a well-preserved old quarter. The city isBulgaria is one of the few countriesup any Jews and kept them safe within surrounded by seven hills, which, afterwhich stood up to Nazi oppression. Al- itsborders.AfterWWIIBulgariafell WHY VISIT BULGARIA? a short climb, make for fantastic vistas. though part of the Axis, it refused to giveinto the Soviet sphere of government, but in 1989, when Communism in the regionfell,itbecameaparliamentary ambiguity. I did a little research and off Iare of Bulgarian descent, who have pop- democracy.set, to the northern most Balkan country,ulated the country since the mid 600s. Gypsies have long been associated Bulgaria. Depending on how you get to Bul- with the region, and it was interesting to ThecapitalcityofSo awasangaria, driving through the Balkan Moun- learn that most have left the area for the amazingly, enjoyable surprise. Its wide,tains from Romania is one of the mostrest of Europe.Gypsies originated in cobblestonestreetsmakestrollingapicturesque routes on earth. The Shipkathe Punjab region of northern India as pleasure. Old, renovated buildings linePass, high in the peaks, was the settinga nomadic people, and entered Europe JONATHAN VAN BILSEN each side and are mostly taken up byof several large battles for control of thebetween the eighth and tenth centuries restaurants. The upperare resi- region. To mark the spot the governmentC.E.TheywerecalledGypsiesbe- oorscauseEuropeansmistakenlybelieved Bulgariaisoneofthosecountriesdences, and although the cost of living iserectedamassivemonumentcom- they came from Egypt. This minority is that, unless you are from there, is not re- inexpensive by our standards, it is quitememorating those who have sacri cedmade up of distinct groups called tribes ally on anyones tourist list. Most peoplehigh by those of Bulgarians. their lives to keep Bulgaria free. or nations. Gypsies are also known as have no idea what there is to see, andAmemberoftheEuropeanUnionLocated near Plovdiv, a major city inRomas, a term which has no correlation many do not even know where it is. since 2007, it has the dubious reputationBulgaria,istheoutdoorEthnographicto the name Romania. Instead it comes Having travelled to all but two coun- of being the most corrupt country the EUMuseumconstructedin1963.Itpres- fromthelanguagetheyspokecalled tries in Europe, I thought it would be in- has. With a population of seven million,entstheBulgariancustoms,cultureEthnographic Museum consists of aboutfty buildings showing life in Bulgaria from the teresting to experience a place with total5% are Gypsies, 8% Turks and the restand craftsmanship, and spans over anearly 1800s. Please turn to page 5654 FOCUS - OCTOBER 2019'